I am writing this in Cornwall Bridge, CT about 45 miles from where we hopped back on the trail in Sheffield, MA. Seth and I are trying to wait out the rain- perhaps it is futile, but we wait anyway.
Dressed for rain #notready.
Can I just say- NOBOs need to slow their roll and respect that SOBOs start their hike in some really hard terrain and conditions. I think I mentioned previously that we encountered some sourpuss NOBOs in Maine that let us know how easy it was for them to do what we winced our way through. (Not all were like this- we met nice NOBOs too). Since we picked up in MA, we've had trail magic almost every day, cell service everywhere, fields to walk through, bear boxes, and all summits less than 2000 feet. ALSO, we hit a town everyday, have picnic tables at campsites, and the trail is so flattened by foot traffic barefoot babies could walk it. All this is very helpful psychologically and I'm just saying it must be nice to start your hike in GA with all the support of well-tread paths and civilization. It was definitely a good decision for us to skip over the harder stuff in New Hampshire because its giving us an opportunity to adjust to the trail more smoothly. Seth's feet are doing great! The new boots are doing the trick and he hasn't had any swelling beyond what is expected when you walk all day.
Just taking a stroll. Nice first day back.
Mt. Bushnell at 1847 feet
I mean, look at this campsite! It's all cleared out and flat and wonderful! Eating at a table in the woods was a special treat!
We took our time breaking camp the second day because our plan is to keep mileage low to make sure the feet are ok and allow us to build up to bigger miles gradually. Within a mile of camp, we came across our first big trail magic at the base of Mt. Everett. Trail magic are gifts and random acts of kindness that make hiking more pleasant- like a cooler of cold sodies at the end of a hot day or a ride to town or a day hiker carrying out your trash for you. This couple, Barry and Wilson, lay out a nice spread for thru hikers every July 4th because Wilson, the lady (Wilson is her trail name), section hikes the AT and has always appreciated the trail magic she has received.
Picture with Barry and Wilson.
Seth eating some HOMEMADE apple pie. Doesn't get more American than that and it was soooooo good.
Even though I had eaten breakfast an hour before this, I went ahead and had a burger. It was cooked-to-order delicious. I also had apple pie. I wasn't hungry at all, but that's not the point. The point is America.
Painting my dreams across the heavens on Mt. Everett.
Pure satisfaction. Does this picture make you satisfied?
Seth has had trouble sleeping in the mornings and he thinks I look super cute sleeping, so he sneaks these photos.
By day three back on the trail people who know us won't be surprised to hear that we started to break our under-10-miles-per-day rule. This is partly because we tacked some extra miles going into town to get treats- so on this day we did 12 miles on-trail and 14 miles total. We stopped in Salisbury, CT, which had many more businesses than were noted in our guides, which means this town would prefer hikers not stop there. So naturally, Seth and I strolled onto their main drag, ate delicious baked goods from Williams Street Bakery, and pooped in their toilet. We had a very lovely time despite some upturned noses, but it's possible we really did just smell.
Eating yummies and writing post cards in Salisbury, CT. While sitting here, one passing woman commented to her husband not to say anything to us. Because we were like homeless people to her? Which we technically are, but still- super rude.
Here we are besmirching the Main St. of Salisbury.
I'll have a coke with this guy! hubba hubba... hubby. One more coke before leaving Salisbury.
Part of the reason we went a little longer this day was because Seth wanted to get to Toymaker's Cafe. The owner works on British motorcycles and the cafe is British themed. The guide and other hikers said they had a delicious breakfast and they allow you to camp behind their business for free.
Putting my feet up at our camp spot behind Toymaker's Cafe. That's the back of restaurant to the left.
And then we ordered pizza and a salad and had it delivered to the backyard.
Day four is when we really started messing up our commitment to keep low miles. One can never really remember how these decisions get made along the way, but I generally end up blaming Seth at the end of the day. But, you guys, I swear I said I wanted to do less miles since we did more than 10 the previous day and as the day continued we just lost sight of that? I don't know what happened. Perhaps a step-by-step will help us all understand how it happened.
We did have their breakfast and it was amazing. Homemade corned beef and delicious sausage links. Also, they had MOXIE!!!!
I woke up feeling off. Not really sure why- just felt blah. I think I slept fine- just had the kind of feeling you have when you don't want to go to work. But you have to go to work- in this case, hike. The morning was spent walking alongside roads which the trail sometimes does.
There was an old train car on the edge of town that was actually pretty cool and Seth liked it a lot.
Its hard to get warmed up hiking along streets. I'm really trying here.
Also, really trying to capture the beauty of road walking, which these flowers are really beautiful. It's just unpleasant walking next to fast cars.
I told Seth about my mood and he could tell it wasn't changing. Which for me is fine- I can keep trudging along. Stop looking at me. But Seth doesn't like when I'm unhappy and wants to try to remedy it, so we started the day with some loose options like hiking to a close shelter, a far shelter, or a town. Seth is talking up the town because he figures we can sleep in a bed, get showers, and do laundry and this will help Lauren's mood. Lauren figures this might help her mood, but is feeling uncertain in this blah state, so we just keep walking.
I'm feeling pretty pooped.
And at some point, the town is what we're doing. This step-by-step has not helped me determine where the decision got made. Perhaps it was my apathy. I know both Seth and I want to keep doing miles and feel like we're making progress, so it's hard for both of us to limit miles. And I know Seth wanted to make me feel better, so town seemed like the solution. Seth calculated 16.5 total miles completed on this day, which, as any mathematician can tell you, is more than the 10-mile limit.
Seth kindly told me that all thru hikers look like this.
Ice cream made things a little better as it tends to do.
We got to the Hitching Post Motel and it had a comfy king bed in a room that didn't really fit a king size bed, but it was fabulous. Unfortunately, both of us were so achy it was hard to get comfortable- no position or propping makes the pain in the feet and knees go away. But I thoroughly enjoyed watching TV. We were too far for anyone to deliver to us, so we just ate chips for dinner and called it a night.
In the morning, we had breakfast at the Cornwall Bridge Market- yummy breakfast sandwiches. We went back to the motel and checked out. Then, returned to Cornwall Bridge Market for lunch and to wait out the rain- trying to get comfort wherever we can and today it's in a meatball sub sandwich. We definitely do not want to do 16 miles again, but I feel unable to guarantee even to myself that we will appropriately limit ourselves. Our poor bodies- they didn't do anything to deserve this.